Citrus season is just beginning in Forestville, the small town in Sonoma County's Russian River Valley where I live. It's too far north for most citrus, but a neighbor has a large grove of hardy Japanese tangerines. I went walking in the rain yesterday to investigate how the crop was coming along. The trees are loaded down with fruit: bright orange balls, barely tinged with green. They'll be ready any day now, and I can't wait because I use them in my Sonoma County version of France's classic Vin d'Orange. I call mine Vin d'Owari, after the owari satsumas in this grove.